Props to Cleveland from the New York Times:

THE Cleveland of ''American Splendor,'' the 2003 Oscar-nominated movie, is a
dreary 1980's town of thrift stores and shambling eccentrics, a place where
you'd barely care to spend two hours, let alone a weekend. Today, Cleveland
hardly feels like the same place. In the 1990's, public-private enterprise
replaced center-city blight with new sports stadiums and the lakefront Rock and
Roll Hall of Fame and Museum. Meanwhile, downtown's revival spurred
gentrification into forgotten enclaves along the Cuyahoga River. There's a
thriving art scene in Tremont, and the retooled Warehouse District has become a
place to be, rather than flee, after dark. Clevelanders remain, by nature, a
self-deprecating lot. But before long, calling their town hip, cosmopolitan --
even splendid -- won't sound so ironic.

The reporter went church hunting, explored Tremont and the West Side Market, the Great Lakes Brewing Co (hey, I was there on Saturday), Rock and Roll Hall of Fame, West 6th, and the museums at University Circle (by me!). I could have recommended a few more places, but ok.